Inspired by a set of miniatures found at Belgrade’s ethnographic museum, SADAK’s new collection is a celebration of diversity and sartorial contradictions, blending the appeal of 1990s subcultures with the beauty of formal tailoring and timeless sportswear. Entitled “Slave Sauvage”, the collection operates a surprising encounter between the dominant and the oppressed, the margins and the mainstream, the subversive and the classic. Slavic and Western-European elements are mixed freely within the line and garments express a desire for cross-cultural encounters, evidenced by the designer’s careful reinterpretation of utility workwear.
This season, tailoring comes to life in a variety of fabrics, from caramel-colored PVC to wool pinstripe, as well as printed cotton and silk. Worn with pleated shorts and mesh long johns, SADAK’s signature jacket is collarless and open in the back, held by belts in matching fabrics. Outerwear is a strong focus, from a reworked plastic blue biker coat to a new trench shape, blending the aesthetics of military shirts with the comfort of traditional Serbian clothing, featuring open sleeves and a generous volume.
Neon tones complement the exclusive print -which is done in blue and green- while beige and nude tones dominate the color palette this time, evoking the neutrality of uniforms as well as Northern African summers, where the desert remains an inspiring landscape. The designer’s longing for natural elements and contrasting textures clashes with the sleek and nihilistic appeal of a PVC wardrobe, including sweatshirts, shorts, overalls and fitted jackets, in shades of blue, tan and black. Brutal and refined at the same time, SADAK’s collection oozes with strength and vitality, underlining structure and ease, while mixing graphic lines with a flou sensibility.
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